Archive for February, 2003

Southeast Asia news

Sunday, February 9th, 2003

I still don’t get the brutality that bubbles just below the surface in these seemingly gentle countries. I caught hints of it while traveling, but these recent stories sum it up:

‘Military patrols in Laos are searching for a group of armed gunmen who killed at least 10 people – two of them Westerners – during a bus attack on Thursday.’
Full BBC story

‘Cambodia has offered an apology and compensation to Thailand after riots in its capital this week drove hundreds of Thais to leave the country.’
Full BBC story

New York Haunts

Sunday, February 9th, 2003

I am a ghost hovering over my friends in New York. I check my footprints in the snow. At the Vindigo office, Joe now sits in my old seat, and I startled former co-workers when I borrowed it to read email.

My first morning back, I went to Gristedes to buy bread, eggs, an orange, and milk. I called Jason in bleary horror when it came to $12.63. ‘Sounds about right,’ he said patiently, while I gibbered about feeding Cambodian families for months.

In Central Park, the huge double strollers provoked me further.
    ‘Lord Jesus, that five-year-old should be carrying the other child! In a sarong. While collecting firewood.’
Later, in a Starbucks, I tried to figure out why the interviewers on my left and right kept asking illegal questions. But these weren’t job interviews, it turned out, they were online dates. Database-driven sex is the new job-hopping, with the same protagonists wearing the same expressions and the same clothes. I am gloomy about this. Everyone else is gloomy about Bush, unemployment, and the New York winter. It is bloody freezing.

When Manhattan got too much, I went out to Sunset Park for arroz con leche and a visit to Lola Montez’s grave in Green-Wood cemetery. I was restored by dollah-fifty Budweisahs in a combined baitshop and bar on City Island in the Bronx, where I watched a pollution-filtered sunset that was richer than any on the Mekong. That old skyline I watched in so many hotel-room movies still romances me.

My friends are patient with my unease. They have housed me, nursed me, and fed me everything from Cocoa Pops to lobster. Though I schlep a backpack from couch to couch, I feel most at home with these sharp, spiky, kind New Yorkers. But without a work permit, I am still a ghost here. You can’t come home through the Visitors Channel.