Archive for the 'Lake Superior' Category

Notes from the Food Chain

Friday, September 3rd, 2004

Storm Clouds over Beaver Rock Cove, Lake Superior
Thunderheads over Steep Rock

Another guest entry from Ranger Tim, who keeps the bunnies coming back for more.

Aug 31, 8:00 pm

“Down at the beach to tend to the boats, I’m startled to find hordes of Blue Darner dragonflies zigzagging through the warm dusk air. These are imposing insects with 5-inch wingspans and irridescent bodies the colour of gun-metal. Over an average year I might see a scattered few dozen, but there are hundreds in the air now. At first I think it’s a copulatory swarm but the body contact is minimal. Turns out the aerial orgy belongs to another species, a familiar small red carpenter ant. The winged males emerge from the pupal stage all at once, and a lucky few will mate with one of the handful of queens which go aerial the same night. The dragonflies are picking them off midair, one by one, in a tremendous show of acrobatics and gluttony.

These are the same ants that have been noisily hollowing out the gable end logs of my cabin. About this time last year my cabin colony hatched inward and I spent a tedious hour with the ShopVac hoovering them alive out of the air, the wardrobe, and the bed. So I mix martinis and we go back down to the beach and root for the dragonflies.

Sept 2, 10:30 pm

Moments after relieving myself off the cabin deck, I’m sitting at the picnic table undoing my bootlaces. A young snowshoe hare lopes into the small cone of porchlight, nose and ears twitching. He is wilfully oblivious to me as he beelines for the little patch of asters and sarsaparilla that I have dampened. He starts mawing down the vegetation there, barely two paces from me.

At five minutes I find myself shocked at just how much roughage such a small animal can pack away so quickly. At ten minutes it dawns on me that he is in fact being quite selective. He snuffles around rather carefully from leaf to leaf, clipping and consuming only the most thoroughly urine-drenched of them. Cherry-picking, so to speak. The real soakers he just licks dry, presumably to stretch out the feast.

I wonder whether there’s some element in my emission that is scarce in his regular diet, a salt or an alkali or somesuch. Or maybe it’s just the good old-fashioned gobsmacking tang of ranger-piss vinaigrette that keeps the bunnies coming back for more.”

This time next week I’ll be watching dragonflies and drinking martinis with him. And peeing off the porch.

A Public Service Announcement

Thursday, May 6th, 2004

Another guest entry from Ranger Tim:

“This is the most beautiful place on earth. There are many such places. Every man, every woman, carries in heart and mind the image of the ideal place, the right place, the one true home, known or unknown, actual or visionary. A houseboat in Kashmir, a view down Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn, a gray gothic farmhouse two stories high at the end of a red dog road in the Allegheny Mountains, a cabin on the shore of a blue lake in spruce and fir country, a greasy alley near the Hoboken waterfront, or even, possibly, for those of a less demanding sensibility, the world to be seen from a comfortable apartment high in the tender, velvety smog of Manhattan, Chicago, Paris, Tokyo, Rio or Rome — there’s no limit to the human capacity for the homing sentiment.” — Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire

Cactus Ed wrote that during his season as a ranger in the sublime slickrock wilderness of Arches National Monument in Utah. Me, I’m privileged to be on my way soon to a summer’s work at my own most beautiful place.

Lake Superior Provincial Park covers 600 square miles of Northern Ontario forest and lake country. The land teems with bear and wolf and moose and beaver. It’s here that the most topographically and geologically complex expression of the Canadian Shield’s ancient bedrock is exposed along a moody, waveswept coast of the world’s largest freshwater lake.

It’s a landscape of profound aesthetic drama, and many visitors find that it speaks directly to a place in their souls, some very old place. Still, there’s always room for explanation, for unveiling of secrets; we who are entrusted with the stewardship of this unique wilderness are often called on to convey the deeper meanings and back stories in its natural and human history.

If you’ve spent time in large parks and reserves anywhere, you know that this work has traditionally fallen to the ranger/naturalist/guide, who’s walked every mile of trail, knows the name of every rock and tree and bird, and who can conjure in narrative the experience of the Ojibwe shaman, or the voyageur, or the trapper in the one-room cabin on a lonely cove, surviving his first winter alone.

But it’s gotten harder in recent years to get by on the old park interpretive staples of amphitheater slide shows, campfire storytelling, and guided walks. For one thing, operational funds in the parks service have been stagnant in the face of increasing visitorship and, in some cases, a swelling natural asset base (In Ontario, wilderness area under protection has in recent years leapt to about 13% of the province’s land mass — the highest in any jurisdiction in the world. As problems go, too much public parkland is a pretty good problem to have).

Then there’s the fact that young park staffers, passionate but perennially underpaid, face the temptations of a dynamic — and predominantly urban — private sector economy that can employ them year-round rather than according to the vagaries of the tourist season. So we suffer high staff turnover, which over the long haul robs a park of its most important soft assets: memory, knowledge, an unbroken thread of verbal tradition.

Before the tech bust sent me spinning back into the orbit of the parks service, where I cut my teeth as a naturalist in my early twenties, I managed software development teams for Fortune 50s, middleware vendors, and hot startups. It was in that professional incarnation that I was struck by the power and economy of using web-based tools to capture and present organizational knowledge and other information assets.

This summer I’m setting out to apply some of the same techniques to what is, at heart, just another information business. There’s a vast amount that’s known about Lake Superior Park, or any other public land asset for that matter, but it’s scattered and locked away in manila file folders, herbarium cabinets, racks of videos and 16mm films, shoeboxes of cassette tapes, and thousands of archive sheets of Kodachromes. And most critically, the minds of park staff and local old-timers who at any time may move off to city jobs, a mobile home in Lauderdale, or worse, some place from which there’s no return.

So I’m going to try and build the foundations of an institutional memory for the park using software tools like Wikis and weblogs and relational databases. No doubt it’ll take years, but my aim is that everything that’s known about the place, every tall tale and map and still image and video and sound snippet, makes its way into a searchable, ontologically-indexed, instantly retrievable digital form.

This central information repository will of course help future staffers efficiently do their job of conveying the significance and wonder of the park in their direct interactions with visitors. But I’m hoping we’ll also find a way to navigate the policy minefields and put the knowledge base into the public domain. The forests and the lakes and the coastline are after all a public trust, and so should be all the knowledge and stories we’ve layered over this landscape across the generations. Coming soon to an internet near you.

Anyway, enough of the utopian manifesto. Here’s the practical matter: Through a one-off windfall seeded by a former provincial government, we’ve come into some pretty first-rate digital media and computing gear. High-end DVR, film and flatbed scanners, video production workstation, fast Dell laptops. I’ve ponied up personal funds for hosting. And we’ve got a crew of bright, motivated, dynamic college kids on their way north in a couple of weeks. But we’re still tight on operating funds, and as is typical for government, what purchasing decisions there are happen glacially. So it may be a while until we get an allocation to buy the training materials I need to turn my staff into a crack media production and content management team.

Having watched over the shoulder of dervala.net for some time now, I know that many of this site’s readers are accomplished designers, technologists, and digital mediamagicians. I am sure that many of you have shelves full of O’Reilly texts and the like that you have outgrown. Would you consider donating the dustier of your books to our effort? Here’s a non-exhaustive list of our training needs:

- Linux/*ux administration – shells – emacs, vi etc – sendmail – Apache – HTML/CSS – Dreamweaver – PHP – MySql – Adobe Photoshop, Premiere, AfterEffects, Audition, Pagemaker

I realize that there’s a lot of good teaching material online but one of the consequences of being based out in God’s Country is the absence of anything but slow, intermittent dialup connectivity. So the dead tree editions, even if they’re a little out of date, remain the medium of choice for our learning.

If you are located in NYC, Toronto, Ottawa, or points in between, I can arrange pickup. Otherwise we might have to do things through the post. Just email tim AT finitor dot com if you have something you think we might be able to use.

I can’t offer much in return other than deep gratitude and modest recognition when we go live. My thanks to to all of you who’ve made it this far in the missive, whether you have books to give or not. And of course a big shout out to Dervala for interrupting her usual eloquence to provide me this soapbox.

“Desire is a treasure map. Knowledge is the treasure chest. Wisdom is the jewel. Yet without action they all stay buried. Hope is the pillar that holds up the world.” — Pliny the Elder

Solstice

Sunday, December 21st, 2003

Gargantua Road in December
This is the Gargantua road at Lake Superior Provincial Park, wearing her winter coat. When I hiked the Coastal Trail in August, the hedgerow was thick with blueberries and mushrooms. Ranger Tim, who has a Voyageur’s heart and is slightly nuts, camped here this week and sent the photo as my Christmas card. It arrived with the greeting: “May Santa bring you the clarity of spirit to behold your blessings, and rejoice in them.”

I pass that wish on to you. I don’t find Christmas an easy time, which puts me squarely in the majority of over-sixes. So I’m grateful for this snowy reminder that today was the solstice, and it gets brighter from here.

Beaver Rock in Winter

Tuesday, December 16th, 2003

Beaver Rock in winter

Ranger Tim sends this picture of Beaver Rock, the cove at Lake Superior where I spent the summer this year. Top left is the rock that names the cove. “My” log cabin was just to the right of the beaver’s head.

Timber Wolf

Monday, December 15th, 2003

Timber Wolf Ranger Tim is back at his soul-home, Lake Superior, and I am envious.

I’m just in from skiing to Frater. Only one face plant, on the long steep downhill from Frater Lake. I am sore all over, but feel great.

On the way in, about a half-mile from the highway, I rounded a bend and in the distance made out a tall grey shape stationary in the middle of the track. Though I’d never seen one before in the wild, I knew right away it was a timber wolf. I was sort of half expecting it, since Rick and I had seen spoor when we drove in earlier in the week.

I shuffled forward slowly until I was some 75 yards away, and he ambled forward a bit too, wondering what I was, apparently. We stood like that for about 5 minutes, just sizing one another up. He was the size of a large German Shepherd but with a wooly, delicate coat. I pulled out my camera and he immediately bolted back, like a Guatemalan cur after you’ve picked up a rock. He stopped again a couple dozen yards up the road, then when I began shuffling forward again, he moseyed casually into the trees.

I guess the thing that surprised me most was how mundane the encounter was. Some of the more romantic literature on wolves talks about something like a spark of atavistic recognition that runs between the species in this kind of one-on-one. Hairs standing up on your neck as the hunter-gatherer race memory kicks in! But all I could think was how much this critter came across like nothing more or less than a shy but dignified domestic dog. I understand now better than ever that the wolf genome lives on in dogs, and that all those centuries of selective breeding have only changed the veneer.

Adventures with Juanita

Monday, October 6th, 2003

Steam rising off Superior

The day I left Lake Superior it snowed out of a clear blue sky. Great clouds of steam rose off the lake. A falcon devoured a crow, scattering feathers. A fine russet fox trotted down the trail ahead of me. Ten feet from my cabin, a bear answered a burning question with a large pile of scat, sprinkled with mountain ash berries like a Christmas dessert. The snowshoe hares wore new dots of white on their foreheads. For the first time ever, I cried leaving a place, not people.

Overloaded

The park staff welcome 30,000 tourists a year, most of whom arrive with plenty of gear. That’s why I got nervous when Ranger Tim’s overloaded trailer was enough of an attraction to draw hoots and snapshots from the remaining staff. I’d spent two days helping to pack it, but I’m slow to diagnose eccentricity unless others point it out, and it was now too late to back out of this freak-show jalopy. Tim guided the photographers around the special features: the outboard engine roped and clamped to the side, the ten-speed tied to the back, the jonboat ingeniously nesting inside the 14-footer, the stove ingeniously nesting inside the jonboat…

Eventually we said fond goodbyes and I wedged myself into the passenger seat among boxes of CDs, pillows, laptops, snacks, and extra clothes, grateful it wasn’t snowing inside. We waved at the lake while Tim drove around the turning circle, revving for a climb up the gravel hill. There was Beth waving halfway up; we stopped to say goodbye. Bad idea. The wheels spun and spat gravel but could not persuade the trailer uphill without momentum. Sheepishly, we enlisted the little crowd to push.

I named the trailer Juanita, after the patient but unpredictable brown mule that walked the length of Peru with travel writer Dervla Murphy. Our Juanita had an alarming tendency to swing like a pendulum when a roadbump or a gust caught her: unchecked, the waves would oscillate larger and larger and threaten to flip the car into the ditch. The first time it happened, we wobbled first into the middle lane and then right over to the side. For lack of a better idea, I shut my eyes and pretended it wasn’t happening. The second time the tires screeched and I thought, quite seriously, that at least my last summer was a good one. Tim soon learned to control the wobbles by driving very slowly and not braking, but it was already four o’clock in the afternoon and he didn’t feel like wrangling Juanita on little sleep. We begged shelter for the night at Ranger Rick’s place in Sault Sainte Marie, just an hour and a half down the road. Ocean’s Eleven and rye seemed the better part of valour.

This just in: Canada is very large and very empty. (Though not yet very cold, praise be.) We drove for twelve hours the next day and didn’t even touch either end of Ontario. To compare, it takes eight hours to drive the length of France. Tiny Ireland is three hours left to right and five top to bottom, and it might take half that if the country had a decent road. We drove through hundreds of miles of fall-bright hardwoods, punctuated by Tim Horton’s donut shops. We drove through small, resonant towns: Blind River, the “town in North Ontario” that Neil Young warbles about in “Helpless”. Deep River, the hometown of Naomi Watts’s character in Mulholland Drive . Petawawa, the military base of the two Canadian soldiers killed in Afghanistan that day.

I refuelled on truck-stop poutine (fries with cheese curds and gravy), a QuĂ©bec special. 400 grams of fat can’t help tasting good. Poutine, it turns out, is very close to the Cheese Chip that Friar Tuck’s used to serve up in Limerick while we watched the Saturday night fights on the steps of the Redemptorist Fathers.

Juanita flips the bird

Juanita behaved, mostly. I learned to let go of the passenger door and enjoy the ride. After a while, we even got used to her shimmies.
“Hey, Juanita likes Texas boogie. She’s shaking her booty.”
It was late when we got to her last stop, Fitzroy Harbour on the Ottawa River. Tim has a cottage on an island in the river, and Juanita was to rest at the government dock overnight before being unloaded by canoe the next day. But he couldn’t get the towbar off the trailer hitch; the ball was too tight to lever off under the weight of the load. So he unclipped the trailer hitch altogether. Juanita was delighted with her new freedom and rolled steadily downhill towards the river. Tim scrambled, but she was far too heavy to haul to a stop, and seemingly determined to have a swim. Two feet from the bank, our pride was saved when a small upturned boat checked her ambition.

Trailer Trash

Tuesday, September 30th, 2003

Danny at the North Gate restaurant/gas station was selling a trailer. Maybe.

The trailer was a baby-blue Howitzer down on its luck. Danny had built it himself: a tall 4 × 6 box with rounded Fifties fenders and a metal rack above. The lid was mostly rotten and there was a hole in the base. Wires trailed where the lights should have been and the paint scurfed off. Danny used it for beer runs to the Soo, but he was thinking about building a larger, legal one. So Rick said.

Ranger Tim needed a trailer to bring his gear south at the end of the season, so we headed up to investigate as an excuse for my second driving lesson. While I tried and failed to line the car up to the petrol pump, Danny scratched his chin and said he didn’t know yet if he wanted to sell the trailer, but if he did he’d want three to four hundred for it. It’d need a bit of work. This seemed a daft amount of money for a vehicle that needed to be pulled, but I stayed quiet. Tim decided to investigate more trailers.

We chatted with Danny’s three-year-old grandson, the best worker in Northern Ontario. Brandon directs operations on his father’s garbage run in the park, and even has his own work-gloves with his name across the knuckles. He is fiercely proud to heft the smaller bags into the truck. “Child labour laws don’t apply to family businesses,” his Dad says, clearly used to explaining away his son’s zeal. He is the happiest kid I’ve seen since the ragged firewood collectives in Asia and Latin America.

Tim and Rick scoured Sault Star classifieds all through August. Every trailer was either too big for the car or already gone. None of John’s leads turned up anything. Canadian Tire (a name of modest scope for a homegrown Wal-Mart) sold an assemble-your-own kit for $950 plus that whopping Canadian sales tax; no lid and no rack, either. A local dealer had a lovely little trailer, so well-balanced you could bounce it on a finger, but when he finally confessed to all the hidden charges, it came to $1400. On trips to town I learned to spot trailers from my peripheral vision as I had once spotted Prada shoes (and more recently, Peregrine falcons). There was nothing decent for sale.

So Tim drove back out to the North Gate to offer Danny two hundred bucks. Danny was busy with the lunch rush and said he’d think about it. Two weeks later, with Tim’s park contract running out, he hadn’t made a decision. He promised to stop by the ranger headquarters in the afternoon when he went to fix a downed park tractor, and Tim posted co-workers to nab him for an answer. Danny caved in the face of this campaign, and eventually agreed to sell it for two fifty, partly counted out in loonies and toonies. Then Brandon helped them unload the trailer.
    “I can do that one!” he yelled crossly when Tim poached a small box. Then he trotted back to the trailer with it and proudly carried it back the shed.

The trailer looked unpromising, but Tim had faith. I offered to help with restoration, and so on Saturday we scoured the park dumps for discarded wood. We found several old wooden road signs, an old jonboat with a hole in it, aluminium strips for patching the jonboat, and sheets of old rubber that might be useful for something. We drove to Wawa, a real frontier town, to buy a light kit. Then he backed the trailer into one of the work bays to get started.

I was the Brandon of the operation: enthusiastic in my borrowed boiler suit, but not especially useful. I insisted on playing the Pet Shop Boys’ “Go West” at full volume; the Broadway chorus puts me in the mood for a road-trip. Tim retaliated briefly with the Beastie Boys. I can’t stand the Beastie Boys. Every song sounds like “Mo-om, I can’t find my college application essay!” But after these musical interludes the work was peaceable. Tim wired in lights, dismantled the lid, and sawed out the rotten wood. While he rebuilt the lid he stuck me in charge of surfaces, where I belong.

I’d been taken with Rick’s suggestion to stick large yellow daisies on the faded, peeling baby blue, but since Tim might need to rely on neighbours for winter storage, he didn’t want to push their kindness with an eyesore. So I sanded. And sanded. And slopped on Park Brown to cover the baby blue. Meanwhile Tim sawed and soldered and hammered and wired, and eventually fitted a new patchwork lid back onto the base. One end, patched with a road sign, now has a large yellow arrow. We sanded the lid right over the fresh paint, speckling it blue and immortalizing our footprints on the wet fenders. The whole thing took two days.

We spent Monday boarding up the Laughing Brook cottage for the winter; cursing at heavy screens, too-short screws, and sandy bolts. I chickened out of paddling in the freezing stream to recover the water pipes for the gravity feed.

The next task, the fun part, was packing in the snow. Tim has seven boats: a fourteen-footer, the salvaged jonboat, large red canoe, a smaller plastic kayak, and three inflatable kayaks. Far too many paddles. Then add a bicycle or two, a large cedar chest, several boxes of books, a hundred-gallon water heater, camping gear, fishing tackle, tools, three computers, a large monitor, a printer, a full stereo system, a Koolatron fridge, a few lamps, and kitchen sundries. Plus me and my rucksack. All of this was to fit in a Honda Accord estate and a 4 × 6 trailer. I knew it could be done, but only because I’ve seen Burmese country buses. I was hoping to pay my passage with the Tetris skills I picked up in the early 90s.

Moving keeps you busy to stop you feeling sad. Early tomorrow I have to board up the Pilot House cabin, and stuff my sleeping gear into the car while Tim greases the trailer axles. A quick walk on the beach to say goodbye to the lake, then a ten-hour drive to Ottawa’s Glebe. I’m looking forward to lowering the tone of my sister’s posh neighbourhood with this shuddering hillbilly wagon, built with such love.

Camouflage

Monday, September 29th, 2003

Tourists! How in the world did they get here? Picturesque as the place was, it held nothing to appeal to the Baedecker spirit.

“The North Star is not here; it is an outrage!”
He uttered various threats.
   “I thought the North Star was running away south around the Perry Sound region,” I suggested.
   “Yes, but she was to begin to-day, June 16, to make this connection.” He produced a railroad folder. “It’s in this,” he continued.
   “Did you go by that thing?” I marveled.
   “Why, of course,” said he.
   “I forgot you were an American,” said I, “You’re in Canada now.”
He looked his bewilderment, so I hunted up Dick. I detailed the situation. “He doesn’t know the race.” I concluded. “Soon he will be trying to get information out of the agent. Let’s be on hand.”

—Stewart Edward White, The Forest, 1903.

Hunting season has started. The park is just an hour and a half from Michigan, and the Americans have started their winter migration. They are easily spotted because they love camouflage. The Canadians disdain them: Michigan Militia, Uncle Norm’s boys, they say, doing target practice on crown soil.

I remember when American tour groups barreled into Limerick from nearby Shannon airport. Ireland was poor in the Eighties and while we welcomed them, we suffered resentment just because we lacked their freedom to swoop into another country on a magic dollar carpet. We assumed they were all rich, but I realize now they were mostly well-meaning retired midwesterners who had probably saved for the pilgrimage. They wore their own idea of camouflage to hunt their roots: godawful kelly-green crimplene flares and tartan caps. They were loud, large, and childlike, and I still have difficulty convincing some Irish friends that other varieties of American exist.

Northern Ontario is not wealthy, and I sense the locals feel the same as we did then. They can’t head south and get a dollar thirty for their buck. The tourists have bigger, flashier cars and gear, and this sting is relieved only by traded satire. Ranger Sam reported a Sunday sighting of a Ford Explorer heading north, completely painted camouflage including the windows, with the licence plate BOWHUNTER. This prompted the story of a legendary Lake Superior ranger who bore no love for our Michigan neighbours. Every autumn he took great pleasure in his frequent trips to the beer store, where hunters in full gear would stagger out with boxes of suds. He would cross the parking lot to shoulder the guy, a solid whomp, followed with a stream of folksy Canadian apology:
  “Whoa, sore-y, sore-y, didn’t see you there, eh?” Then, brushing his victim’s sleeve, he would continue in wonder: “Hey! That camo really works!”

An asshole. Still, my kind of asshole.

Mr. Bear

Tuesday, September 23rd, 2003

   “There was a very large black bear on the porch just now,” says Tim as I flail up the hill, back from a jog. “Sniffing at the crate of food. Much bigger than the last bears.”

I’d heard heavy movement while I was sitting inside earlier. I’d thought it was Tim stopping by while he carried out the daily water tests. More likely it was my new neighbour, Mr. Bear. “About 350lbs, I’d say. I was scrambling for the digital camera, but he’d gone by the time I found it. Just ambled up shitter path and into the woods.” (Up here, people say “shitter”, not “outhouse”. It took weeks for my delicate sensibilities to adjust. I swear like Colin Farrell, but such frankness is a different thing entirely.)

We carried all the dry food over to the staff pantry. The wooden dumpster outside the kitchen door was hacked and splintered—bear damage, new since the morning. It was my pungent, fermenting squid guts that drew him, and I felt slightly guilty. It wasn’t the season for problem bears, though, right?
   “Depends. Berries are gone. The campground is empty, no more garbage. Things are starting to get harder, and that sometimes makes for a problem bear. He seemed pretty shy, though, scooted pretty much as soon as he saw me.”
I quizzed Tim. Could he get into the cabin? Under what circumstances would he find me irresistible enough to want to? What should I do if he came back? What about walking back from the kitchen at night? What kind of doors can he open? How tall was he? Taller than me? Taller than you? Where do bears sleep at night? How big is his territory?
   “Just look left and right before you stroll out onto the porch,” said Tim. “And don’t keep food or dirty dishes in there.”

Now I shout “Hello Mr. Bear,” whenever I step outside. I hope I’ll see him. I hope he won’t be the last thing I see.

Mikey

Monday, September 22nd, 2003

   “I can’ remember that,” says Mikey. One arm is draped heavily across my shoulders. A bottle of Sambuca hangs from the other. “Iss too hard. I’ll forget. Dirt. Dirt, I can remember. Can I call you Dirt?”
For the twelfth time, I say okay, Mikey, you can call me Dirt.
   “Dirrt!” he says with satisfaction and a fine French-Canadian ‘r’.
   “See, that’s ignorant, calling her Dirt,” says Jim. I am fond of Jim, the former dog-musher. He broke his nose six times in his amateur boxing career, and now it wobbles down his face. His hair and moustache are still glossy black, though he passes around proud photos of his grandchildren. In his overalls he looks exactly, and I mean exactly, like Super Mario. “Try it, Mikey. DAR-ve-la. Am I right?”
   “Pretty close,” I say.
   “Darbel…” says Mikey. “No, I can’ be doing with that. I won’ remember it. I’ll call you Dirt. You don’ mind?” He peers blearily into my face, searching for woman-hurt.
   “Not at all. I’ve been called worse.”
   “You’re a good woman, Dirt. Have some Sambuca.”
   “Breathe on the fire, Mikey. It’s going low.”

The contractors are working on the new Visitor’s Centre at Lake Superior Provincial Park, a shiny, five-million-dollar affair that will soon hum with electronics. Motion sensors will detect your entrance and immediately ten DVD players will project across the lobby, recreating the sights and sounds of a November storm on the lake. Inside, a bronze lynx stalks a bronze merganser duck, paddling obliviously on the next plinth, while a sleek bronze otter watches nearby. Equally sleek displays introduce other park inhabitants, past and present: the Ojibway, the giant sturgeon, the Voyageurs, the black bear. You could visit the Visitor’s Centre and avoid the whole untidy out-of-doors thing. The hope is, though, that you’ll be inspired to explore.

Mikey, Scotty, Andy, and Jimmy are not much inspired to explore, though they’ve been here since Spring. The work is hard, the hours are long, and they speed back to their homes in the Soo as soon as they are released on Fridays. During the week they peer into my cook-pots in the staff kitchen while they wait for their pizzas to heat.
Stuffed Squid: The Raw and the Cooked   “What’s it tonight, then?”
   “Vietnamese stuffed squid,” I say, wedging a thumbful of noodles into something slippery that might be a Victorian catgut condom. “Do you want to see their eyes?” I say, with an evil glint in mine. Scotty looks like he may vomit.
   “Got the wine going again, eh?” says Andy.
   “I do,” I agree. I am the only one in the kitchen who does not drink case after case of Canadian beer, and so my three-month collection of empties is conspicuous. Whenever they see me, or so it seems, I have a wine bottle clamped between my sneakers and am wrestling the cork out with a Swiss Army Knife. The contractors are puzzled about my purpose, though no more than myself. What is she up to, this Irish girl of no apparent occupation other than filling the kitchen with strange smells?

We lived peacefully side-by-side all summer, exchanging pleasantries about my bizarre culinary performances and silently united by our illicit status. They are supposed to be paying fifty or sixty bucks a night for dingy motel accommodation outside the park gates. I am supposed to be in my own country. We are all, in the nicest possible way, squatting in the abandoned buildings at Beaver Rock Cove staff complex, and so we tried not to annoy the official staff in the kitchen. I baked occasional bribes of peanut-butter cookies and hid behind Ranger Tim. The builders mostly skedaddled once their pizzas were heated. Once a week they blasted The Bear Classic Rock and swept and swabbed the floors. “Dwayne’s Crew” was written on the cleaning rota in erasable marker, where everyone else was listed by name. They didn’t mind. This way four of them got to share the chores of one person.

Now the summer staff are gone, and we are braver.

The builders doss down in an old bunkhouse at Beaver Rock, and do occasional fix-ups as payment. In the evenings they hit golfballs on the beach sand, or play horseshoes with old plastic toilet seats. They hang out at a picnic bench in front of the bunkhouse, just above the beach, where they build great fires with old construction materials and down heroic quantities of Molson Canadian and Labatt’s Blue. They smoke Drum tobacco or legally-possessed dope. They gossip about the marijuana plantation that was raided last month in the park.

I had seen them there sometimes on my walks on the beach. The flames from their bonfires were high, and lit up the growing collection of dead soldiers on the picnic table. I never joined them, though, until one night Mikey pressed Sambuca shots on me and Ranger Tim in the kitchen, on his way from the cooler to the weekly pow-wow. We decided to follow him out with some beer offerings later, and they were touchingly glad to welcome us.
   “Well, it’s great to finally fucking meet you properly, eh Tim? All summer we didn’t know if you guys minded us being in the kitchen…”
   “We didn’t know if you were real straight and all, workin’ for the Ministry…”
   “Always nice to have a woman about the place. Makes it feel more like a home, eh? We used to go crazy with the smells in the kitchen, and all we’d have is pizza or burgers.”

We chatted and drank, figuring each other out. When it was my round I scrabbled desperately in the walk-in cooler for beers that weren’t poncey Hefeweizen or Czech Pilsner, and eventually redeemed myself with some good Canadian Sleeman’s Ale. Mikey, now half-way down his Sambuca bottle, was slurring when I got back.
   “We never knew your name.” I knew that. Most non-Irish people don’t get it right away if they haven’t seen it written down. People I’ve known for some time often get a desperate look when they have to introduce me to someone else. “And this is…”
   “Dervala,” I say.
   “JAR-vla?”
   “Dervala. With a D.” My brogue lives on in alveolar fricatives.
   “What kind of a name is that?” says Mikey. He sounds affronted.
   “Irish. I’m Irish.”
   “You’re not.”
   “I am.”
   “From Ireland Irish?”
   “Exactly.”
   “When did you come to Canada?”
   “July.”
   “But you don’ have an accent.”
   “I do, though. But Northern Ontario sounds very like the west of Ireland accent.”
   “You’re not Irish. If you’re Irish, where did you learn English?”
This may be a lot of information to present at once, I decide, and since Mikey is now quite drunk I don’t want to tax him. “In New York,” I say, and he seems satisfied.
   “I knew you couldn’t be straight over from Ireland. Your English is too good, eh?”

Tim helps Scotty throw a large armchair on the fire, and we watch it go up. It is entirely itself as it burns, sitting with dignity as it shimmers in the flames. I picture Shelley’s cremation on the beach in Italy.
   “So Tim,” says Scotty with a backslap, “you’re the big naturalist, eh? We were watching the geese fly south earlier, in that V like they do. Tell us, why is one side of the V longer than the other?”
Tim thinks for a bit. Scotty and Jimmy hoot.
   “Because there are more geese on that side!”

They discover that in me they have a virgin audience for ancient Northern Ontario jokes, and they spar to tell them. Mikey launches into an endless ramble about the Soo woodpecker that goes to Toronto (“And this Toronto woodpecker, he’s a big fucking cool dude and he’s walkin’ around in sunglasses…”) Jimmy tells me how Two Dogs Fucking got his name. Then he then tells me how much he adores his second wife, how they hate being separated while he’s working up here. “She’s Croatian. Speaks it and everything. And a great cook, as good as my Italian mother.”
   “Do you know why Italian men learn to cook?” I ask him, an old Brooklyn joke my landlord used to tell. He shakes his head. “So they can marry Irish women.” This pleases him greatly.
   “The one you want to have cooking for you,” he says, “is Mikey’s mother. Makes his lunch and dinner for the whole week and sends it up with him in Tupperware. Five lunches, four dinners, every fucking week.”
   “He never even knows what he’s going to have until he opens it,” Scotty hoots, “ ‘What’s for dinner, Mikey?’ ‘I don’t know yet,’ he says.” I laugh. Mikey is at least forty years old. Now he’s glowering through swigs of Sambuca, but they won’t let it drop.
   “Little fucking Tupperware boxes,” sputters Jimmy. “He doesn’t know what’s for lunch til he opens them.” It is a great joke. Mikey doesn’t think so.

   “Dar…Darbel…I jus’ can’ get your name. Do you have some kind of nickname?’ he says, leaning on my shoulder now.
   “Sometimes people call me Derv.”
   “Derv. No. I won’t remember that either. I can remember…Dirt. Dirt, I can remember. Is it terrible if I call you Dirt?”
   “Not if it makes you happy, Mikey.”
   “Dirt. My brother, see, he remembers everyone’s names. I jus’ remember faces. My brother would get your name. He’s in business, eh? Has to remember names.” His elbow is now wedged painfully into my neck. “What these guys don’ get, eh, Dirt, is why my mother makes my lunches that way. The psy-cho-logical aspects.”
Jimmy and Scotty are still throwing Tupperware barbs. The fire is roaring. Mikey tells them to shut up, he’s explaining to me.
   “See, my mother was not my mother. She was my grandmother. The woman I thought of as my mother was really my grandmother.”
   “Then your birth mother was your sister?”
   “Right. She lived with us. But my grandmother was my mother.”
   “You never knew this growing up?”
   “I knew. I didn’ care. My mother was my mother, and she was my sister. She had other kids later, too. I liked her, but she was my sister.”
   “Jack Nicholson found out the same thing about his family just a couple of years ago. You’re in good company.”
   “Huh. So anyway, I moved to the Soo, built a house. And my grandmother died. Then my birth mother, she needed to move to the Soo to be near some of her other kids. And I had space in my house, so she said could she come and live with me. And I said fine. But now it’s like she wants to start being my mother for the first time. And I’m 41. And I had a mother already. So she makes me fucking crazy with where are you going and here’s your lunches. I tell her, stop trying to be my mother all of a sudden. But she needs it. She makes me fucking crazy, but she’s lonely and she needs it.” He swigs his Sambuca and jerks a thumb at Scotty and Jimmy, who are standing back so they can’t quite hear. They’re still laughing. “These guys, they don’t get the…deep stuff behind my lunches. They just think it’s funny.”

For a moment he looks so lost that I can fully understand the urge to mother Mikey.